On The Rocks Magazine

02.11.2017

A Family Affair

People

Savannah earrings in 18ct rose gold with smoky quartz, Vivianna Dew Drop pendant 132 in silver with smoky quartz and diamonds and Dew Drop neck ring in silver, all by Georg Jensen. Rollneck top, leather vest and belt by Roksanda.

Danish tastemakers Georg Jensen celebrate 
their 50-year collaboration with the inimitable 
Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe

Tiffany & Co. may be able to count Paloma Picasso and Elsa Peretti as some of their most glamorous designers but Denmark’s Georg Jensen have their very own celebrated designer and muse in the late Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe. This startlingly beautiful woman, who would have been 90 this year, designed some of the brand’s most arresting and evergreen jewels, including their stainless steel bangle watch, ‘Möbius’ brooch and ‘Dew Drop’ necklace. Fifty years after the start of their collaboration, the Danish house is celebrating the milestone with a re-launch of Bülow-Hübe’s Savannah collection in rose and yellow gold. 

Back in 1967, the willowy Swedish jeweller heralded the start of a new era at the luxury silver company; with her input, Georg Jensen suddenly became, in the words of design expert Murray Moss, “hip”. Simple yet chic, and speaking to her inspirations in nature and jazz, as well as a personal philosophy that abhorred ostentation and convention, Bülow-Hübe’s designs feel as modern today as they did in the heady 60s and 70s. But then, she was a thoroughly modern woman, starting her career as a single working mother and consistently forging her own path through life. Photographs show an exceptionally graceful, Avedon-esque beauty, posing like a born model in a simple form-fitting dress on a park bench, for example, or examining what appears to be a hybrid of art and jewellery with her friend, Pablo Picasso. (The two met on the beach in the south of France while the designer was collecting pebbles; the story goes that he made a drawing of her on a stone.) 

Taking after her mother, a sculptress, Bülow-Hübe resolutely pursued the creative life. Her work may have been unconventional and overtly sculptural, but people responded to her singular vision; Billie Holiday, Ingrid Bergman and Brigitte Bardot were among her discerning clients. Her forward-thinking designs are an integral part of the Georg Jensen language – so much so that at the brand’s Copenhagen HQ, there even stands a recreation of her workshop, complete with framed posters, tools and a beige Dior coat, which can easily be imagined on her slender frame. Though she died in 2004, Bülow-Hübe remains a leading light in Georg Jensen’s story and a beloved member of the family. Her motto – “to be, not to seem” – is woven into every deceptively simple, sinuous jewel she made for them. 

Casting

David Steven Wilton

Model

Eliza R at Viva London 

Hair

Davide Barbieri at Caren

Make-up

Bea Sweet at LMC Worldwide

Manicure

Jessica Thompson at Eighteen Management

Photography Assistant

Declan Slattery

Suggestions
Close

Subscribe For Updates

Privacy Policy

Subscribe

* Mandatory Fields